First off, all measurements are in Amps or Amp-hours... no Watts or KWatts
which can throw the numbers a bit since the battery voltage seems to change
from about 370Volts at full to 330V or so near the bottom.... Anyway..

running a similar test to my 'acceleration test' we found that
5bar slow acceleration up a slight hill takes .35Ah
6bar accel is .40Ah
7bar accel is .51
8bar accel to 40mph is .53
11bar accel to 40mph is .61

Meaning:  A hard acceleration followed by cruising will use about 20%
          more power than a normal traffic acceleration... not bad.

Slowing from 61mph to 0 using hard breaking put .15Ah back into the pack
using ONLY REGEN to gradually go from 61mph to 0 put .24Ah back into the pack

Meaning: As we expected, take your time coming to a stop.

Hitting the break WILL ADD MORE REGEN, but you'll also stop quicker so
the total time results in less total regen... just like the quick 
acceleration but in reverse...

Ok, now while driving you can use anywhere from a few Amps to almost 400Amps
as measured by the thingy in full acceleration.  Normal coast down seems
to put about the same amps as your mph speed back in.. ie, coasting down
from 60mph will put in 60Amps for a split second, when you're passing
the 50mph mark it's about 50Amps etc etc... so, more REGEN juice at higher
speeds.

Going 55mph at first I measured anywhere from 16-22Amps on level ground.
I tried rolling down the windows and it jumped up to 20-26Amps...
So keep those windows up and use the AC (more on that later).

Repeating the same experiment on the same stretch of highway....
55mph used 22-26Amps (sometimes 5, sometimes 6 bars)
65mph used 30-36Amps (solid 6 bars)
75mph used 45-50Amps (solid 7 bars)

Moral of the story?  DRIVING 75MPH WILL USE TWICE AS MUCH POWER AS 55MPH.

I couldn't get any solid readings while drafting trucks, but it did seem
to help.

on a different road:
55mph used 24-28Amps
45mph used 13-18Amps

on yet a 3rd road:
30mph used 8-12Amps

Ok now for the really nitpicky stuff...

In PARK the car uses about .6Amps
'creeping' forward takes to 2 or 3 Amps.
Foot on the break fighting the creep in drive can take an extra Amp or
more as compared to putting it in neutral with a light foot on the break.

now keep all the following in mind while you're sucking 20-50Amps driving
on the freeway:

charging my cell phone uses less than .1A (couldn't see)
the vent at setting 1 uses less than .1A (couldn't see)
the vent at setting 2 uses .1A
the vent at setting 3 uses .2A
the vent at setting 4 uses .4A
the vent at setting 5 uses .6A

the radio (REALLY LOUD) uses .1A
the map light uses .1A
the headlights use .6A
The front defog/de-ice takes 2.8A (!)
the rear defog takes 1.1A
the windshield wipers take .2A
rolling both windows up and down together takes 1.4A (!)

Heat3  fan4 with recirc takes 2.9A
Heat2  fan3 with recirc takes 1.8A
Heat1  fan2 with recirc takes 1.7A
AC3 (that's Air Conditioner, not Audio Compression) fan4 takes 2.9A
AC1 fan3 with recirc takes 1.4A
The lower heat and AC settings are kinda hard to measure because the thing
has a mind of it's own... But it is clear to me that if you can heat up
or cool down the cabin at setting 2 or 3 then go back to setting 1,
you're a LOT better off than having the windows rolled down (at freeway
speed).

Ok, other lessons learned?
Don't worry about leaving the radio on!  (the headlights use 6x as much)
Worry about the AC or the defoggers... but don't worry much because
at 55mph, that defogger or full blast AC/heat is only 1/10th of your
juice.... the AC/heat at lower settings is 1/20th!

The main thing to remember if you're driving for range: SLOW DOWN!

reducing your speed 20mph could save 20Amps
turning off the radio will save you less than 0.1Amps
Turning off the AC at low settings will save you 1.5Amps